DanyaZ

Openings: Hickory Lane, East Girard Gastropub, Honest Tom’s Tacos

Thu, 22 Dec 2011 00:00:00 -0500

Openings: Hickory Lane, East Girard Gastropub, Honest Tom’s Tacos:

Hickory Lane’s burger

A seemingly continuous cascade of restaurants are popping open their doors before the calendar ticks over to 2012. Last night was the first night of service for Hickory Lane, a BYO bistro located in the shuttered L’Oca spot on Fairmount Ave, just across from Eastern State Penitentiary. Former Rouge chef Matt Zagorski has the reins, and is planning a menu of hearty, seasonal fare. He and partner Jack Henderson did a quick revamp on the interior, concealing the open kitchen somewhat and adding dark wood touches. Lunch will follow in the coming weeks, and a liquor license has been hinted at in the near future.

Another redo has also just launched, this one on the eastern edge of town. Rob Holloway is serving elevated neighborhood fare at the East Girard Gastropub (call it E.G.G.), in the space he purchased whenMike Stollenwerk closed Fathom to concentrate on Fish. More tables now surround the bar, and while seafood is still on the menu, there’s one big new addition: meat! Snacks start around $4 and top out at $18, in line with what the Fishtown crowd expects.

In West Philly, food-truck pioneer Tom McCusker of Honest Tom’s Taco Shop has finally opened his brick-and-mortar location (we first mentioned it last March). Open 8 AM–9 PM daily, the shop serves his famous breakfast tacos with locally roasted GreenStreet coffee, and then switches over to a bill of fare similar to the mobile operation, with the addition of big, burly burritos. A communal table and counter with stools fill the interior, and outside picnic seating will be introduced as soon as the weather is willing.

New Year's Eve Celebrations in Philly

Tue, 20 Dec 2011 00:00:00 -0500

New Year's Eve Celebrations in Philly:

Ela

Much as we might want to slow it down, the calendar inexorably continues its march forward, leading us into a new year. Reflect on the one just passed and ring in the new with a celebration to remember. Here are our picks for the best parties on New Year’s Eve, and a few ways to recover with brunch on January 1. Happy New Year!

New Year’s Eve

Bistro St. Tropez: Savor one of the best views in the city over a decadent holiday tasting dinner by chef Patrice Rames at this French bistro in the Marketplace Design Center beside the Schuykill. Choose from multiple seatings and enjoy foie gras terrine with black truffle and cognac mousse, house-cured salmon, butter-poached lobster and more ($60 for four courses, $75 for six courses; 215-569-9269).

Chifa: Go exotic and choose from two special menus from chef de cuisine Natalie Maronski, featuring the fusion that’s made this Wash West Peruvian-Chinese one of Jose Garces’ most popular. Think pork belly bao buns, kimchi duck tacos, roasted quail lo mein and other East-meets-West creations ($60 or $75; 215-925-5555).

Ela: The just-opened Queen Village New American from Jason Cichonski is close enough to Penn’s Landing that you can easily stroll over just before or after catching the fireworks to sample the young chef’s inventive holiday fare ($60 for three courses or $75 for four courses, add beverage pairings for $25 for wine or $20 for beer; 267-687-8512).

R2L: Watch the twinkling lights of the city from above during dinner on the 37th floor of Liberty Two. Select from a four-, six- or nine-course tasting menu, featuring dishes like the cleverly deconstructed veal stew Daniel Stern was known for at Gayle. For an even higher perch, hit up the “Penthouse Party” on the 57th floor to partake in a premium open bar and stationed hors d’oeuvres ($75–$150, depending on time, $150 “Penthouse Party”; 215-564-5337).

Village Belle: Right on Front Street, Joey and Lou Campanaro’s Queen Village Italian has a prime view of the fireworks. Catch the sights at a 6 or 9 PM seating, featuring a classic four-course meal of lobster bisque, shrimp cocktail, strip steak and dessert, as DJs spin tunes throughout the night ($75 or $125, add $50 for open bar; 215-551-2200).

Zahav: Named for the Hebrew word for “gold,” Michael Solomonov’s modern Israeli is a perfect place to go all out for a holiday meal you won’t soon forget. Four courses run the gamut from old-world to newish combinations like fluke crudo with labaneh and caviar or hummus with spicy beef and pickled artichokes. Be sure to save room for the chocolate-hazelnut babka with orange-vanilla ice cream ($65, add $35 for beverage pairing; 215-625-8800).

New Year’s Day

Federal Donuts: This Pennsport hot spot may have just invented the new best way to combat a night of partying: twice-fried chicken wings. Choose from za’atar-dusted, garlic-chili-glazed or other flavors, and top them off with some coffee and fresh-fried donuts. Your recovery will be swift (267-687-8258).

Paramour: The build-your-own Bloody Mary bar is reason enough to make it out to the suburbs when you awake from the previous evening’s escapades. Over 20 sauces, olives, house-pickled veggies, beef jerky, shrimp and more are available to garnish your vodka-tomato beverage, and if you have room, there’s also quail-egg sliders or blue corn pancakes for brunch (610-977-0600).

Supper: After spending New Year’s Eve with friends and family, make it up to those who keep you happy all year long: your pets! Bring your furry one to Mitch Prensky’s South Street New American, where he’ll be serving his now-traditional “Hair of the Dog” brunch to humans and their best friends (215-592-8180).

Heirloom: A New BYO Debuts in Chestnut Hill

Mon, 19 Dec 2011 00:00:00 -0500

Heirloom: A New BYO Debuts in Chestnut Hill:

At Heirloom, a new BYO situated on Chestnut Hill’s Germantown Avenue, proprietor Robert Bynum (Warmdaddy’s, Relish) has partnered with well-traveled Philly chef Al Paris for a take on “fine American cookery.”

Paris researched old cookbooks from all over the country, including the South, the Midwest, New England and more, to find traditional recipes that have been lost in recent times. His reconfigured classics will appear on a frequently changing menu, split into salads, appetizers and mains. These are hearty, belly-filling plates: a huge dollop of burrata comes surrounded by a profusion of lightly warmed whole tomatoes ($12), and a large diver scallop is plated with a generous slab of Berkshire pork belly ($14). Entrees top out at $29, which brings an entire lobster’s worth of meat, expertly plucked from its shell and accompanied by a scoop of fluffy gnocchi, garnet yams, morels and more. The ample serving of braised short ribs is highlighted by a chunk of fresh-baked spoonbread, adapted from a 1930s recipe ($24).

Desserts are all housemade, including Paris’ answer to the current donut craze: a glazed, yeast-based rendition that comes topped with warm, cinnamon-baked apples, ice cream and a crisp of oatmeal and accompanied by a petite caramel-coated apple on a stick. There’s also sarsaparilla soda and unique mixers to complement diners’ bourbons or other spirits (it’s directly next door to a Wine & Spirits shop), plus small-batch root beers and refreshingly spicy Blenheim ginger ale.

The warmly lit room seats 50, including two-tops, four-tops and banquettes that surround a dramatic wood-slab communal table. The hand-stacked slate walls, bamboo flooring and vintage reproduction fabrics lend the space the feeling of a classic cottage. Much of the construction was done by Paris himself, a talented artisan whose friends call him a true Renaissance man.

Heirloom will serve dinner 5–10 PM, Tuesday–Thursday and Sunday, and 5–11 PM Friday–Saturday, with weekend brunch from 10:30 AM–2:30 PM.

8705 Germantown Ave.; 215-242-2700

DeLorenzo’s Closing in Trenton; Shane Candies Reopens

Fri, 16 Dec 2011 00:00:00 -0500

DeLorenzo’s Closing in Trenton; Shane Candies Reopens:

Prepping a pie at DeLorenzo’s

It’s a rarity, but a select few restaurants survive long enough to become an institution. Often these are eateries of the simplest variety, not catering to trends or fads, but sticking to a trusted, time-worn formula. Today, the Times of Trenton brings us news that we will soon lose what is thought of by many as the best pizza in the region. After 65 years, DeLorenzo’s Tomato Pies in Trenton will shut its doors on January 15. Its crispy thin-crust pies, sprinkled with cheese and crushed tomatoes (never sauce), garnered a cultlike following over the years, drawing pilgrimages from Philadelphia and beyond. “It’s time…to take a breather,” says owner Gary Amico. A second location that opened in 2008 will remain open, and – happily for Philly folks – the Amicos are considering a new outpost in Pennsylvania.

In the positive vein, historic Philadelphia confectionary Shane Candies has just relaunched, after a nearly year-long renovation by Eric and Ryan Berley (of nearby Franklin Fountain). The candy shop first opened in 1863, and was run by the Shane family for over a century before they sold it to suspender-and-bow-tie-wearing Berley brothers in May 2010. The pair has preserved the Victorian touches inside the Old City storefront, including the antique candy-making machinery, which has been revamped and is ready to start pumping out sweets, just in time for the holidays (110 Market St.; 215-922-1048).

Ella's American Bistro, Oddfellows Cafe and Calaca Feliz Coming Soon

Thu, 15 Dec 2011 00:00:00 -0500

Ella's American Bistro, Oddfellows Cafe and Calaca Feliz Coming Soon:

Courtesy of Ella’s American Bistro

The end of the year is a somewhat risky time to launch a new restaurant, what diners busy being merry at home. But that hasn’t stopped several ventures from preparing to open their doors in the coming weeks.

This Monday will be the first day of service for Ella’s American Bistro, a casual farm-to-table coming to Wayne. Devon Hill BMW owner Cortright Wetherill Jr. has brought in chef Matt Schuler, a former instructor at the Pennsylvania School for Culinary Arts to head the kitchen. He’s taken advantage of organic produce, local meats and artisanal cheeses to craft affordable lunch and dinner menus for the 100-seat white-tablecloth dining room, which is decorated with distressed wood. The bar is made from an organically milled Sycamore tree, and will serve craft brews, classic cocktails and a handpicked wine list, 50 in bottles and 12 by the glass (214 Sugartown Rd., Devon Square, Wayne; 610-964-3552).

What was formerly slated to be just a second location for Spruce Street Espresso has morphed into a full-blown eatery, MealTicket reports, and will open to the public on December 28. Named after the building it occupies at the corner of 12th and Spruce (in the early 1900s, the national headquarters for the Grand United Order of Odd Fellows), Oddfellows Cafe will launch first as just a coffee shop, but come January 5, chef Jorge Reyes (previously at El Vez) will dish out contemporary Latin-influenced food for lunch and dinner.

Also in early January (the exact date has yet to be pinned down), the second undertaking from Cantina Feliz’sTim Spinner and Brian Sirhal. Helmed by former Xochitl chef Lucio Palazzo, Calaca Feliz will offer contemporary Mexican cuisine in the former Illuminaire space at 2321 Fairmount. Per the name (translated as “happy skeleton”), expect vibrant, Day of the Dead themed decor, similar to the Fort Washington original.

Year in Review: Philadelphia's 2011 Trends

Tue, 13 Dec 2011 00:00:00 -0500

Year in Review: Philadelphia's 2011 Trends:

Courtesy of The Dandelion

At this juncture, there’s no doubt Philly throws down with the best as a serious food city. Continuing the upward trajectory of the past decade, 2011 has seen an unprecedented number of openings. Our hometown celebrity chefs are gaining national followings and spurring on that popularity with new concepts both local and national. Gourmet has gone mobile, with fanciful food trucks dotting streets from Center City to University City and beyond. A focus on local ingredients is now a given for any establishment, with many taking to brick ovens and presenting dishes as plates to share. All self-respecting bars now sport impressive craft beer lists, and craft cocktails are not far behind. All in all, the year was a banner one for the dining scene here, with some of the biggest highlights and trends listed below.

Big Name Restaurateurs Expand

Stephen Starr is widely credited with sparking the restaurant renaissance in Philadelphia with his ’90s launches of martini bar Continental and Asian-fusion Buddakan. Starr Restaurants now operates over 25 establishments in New York, Florida, Atlantic City and Philly, where he added four new themed destinations in 2011. Multiroom English pub Dandelion launched in Rittenhouse just after the holidays a year ago, and chef Robert Aikens’ elevated but comforting British fare has been well-received. In the spring, German biergarten Frankford Hall brought valet parking to rapidly gentrifying Fishtown, with huge tap pours and outdoor picnic and Ping-Pong tables. This autumn, longtime organization vet Chris Painter finally got his own kitchen, when white-tablecloth Italian Il Pittore took over the former Noble space on Sansom Street. Just on its heels came Route 6, an expansive seafooder on North Broad that marks what Starr claims will be his last launch in our city, at least for some time.

Jose Garces and Marc Vetri are undoubtedly the other best-known names in town, and though neither of them opened in the city during 2011, both are working on new projects. In 2012, Vetri will launch Alla Spina, an Italian beer bar located just across the way from Starr’s Route 6 on North Broad. He’s also planning his first suburban outpost, coming soon to NJ’s Moorestown Mall. There are also rumors that a Vetri restaurant is coming to Atlantic City, which the spirited toque currently denies. Garces, on the other hand, is definitely duplicating three of his popular Philadelphia concepts to Revel casino at the seaside resort, including Amada, Village Whiskey and Distrito. The Iron Chef also recently launched dining operations at a high-end hotel in Scottsdale, Arizona.

Brick-Oven Cooking

In addition to using locally sourced meats and produce, a slew of eateries are taking retro further and going back to cooking with fire. Brick or coal-fired ovens create crispy pizzas at Gordon Dinerman’s new East Passyunk beer stop Birra, in the back of the roving Pitruco Pizza truck, at Old City’s Revolution House (here made of white marble!) and at the Rittenhouse outpost of NYC’s Serafina. A wood oven has already been set up at the former Horizons, just off South Street, where a branch of Hopewell, NJ’s Nomad Pizza is set to launch any day. Spread Bagelry has finally brought great bagels to Philadelphia – long lacking – by baking them fresh over roaring logs each morning, and the lines out the door every day make the three-month delay in opening (thanks to an electrical fire) seem worthwhile. Fancier coals heat up the Tandoor ovens at Broad Street’s Tashan, the first upscale offering from Tiffin mogul Munish Narula, where chef Sylva Senat is stoking the fires to produce unique Euro-Indian cuisine.

Craft Beer Is Everywhere, Craft Cocktails Are on the Rise

When Brooklyn-based beer-and-video-game spot Barcade opened in Philadelphia this summer, partner Paul Kermizian confirmed what we already knew. “You’re more likely to find a great variety of craft beer in any given bar here than you are in New York City,” he told us, and that may have been an understatement. Over two dozen beers on tap accompany many recent launches, from Queen Village’s Tapestry to Barcade to Old City’s revamped Khyber Pass Pub. Broad Street pre-theater spot Upstares at Varalli has been transformed into full-on craft beer haven Perch Pub. Even Reading Terminal Market now holds a gastropub, Molly Malloy’s, offering tourists and conventioneers a chance to sample from our vibrant brew scene.

Two dozen rare European pours are only half the focus at Walnut Street’s Farmers’ Cabinet, where bar manager Phoebe Esmon has created an ever-changing menu of handcrafted cocktails. Housemade syrups, shrubs and bitters factor into the unique recipes here, as they do at Easy Passyunk’s Stateside and Locust Street’s Vedge. Subterranean speakeasy Franklin Mortgage & Investment Co., which precipitated Philly’s current mixology focus, is still going strong and also has plans to expand their creative beverage program with a Fairmount tavern (in partnership with Supper’s Mitch Prensky).

Medium Plates and Tasting Menus

While tapas and miniature bar bites were all the rage a few years back, the new trend leans toward slightly larger dishes meant for sharing. At a.kitchen on 18 Street, patrons are advised to order two-three items per person off of Bryan Sikora’s menu, and to share each one. Rich Landau’s vegetable-rich meatless dishes at Vedge follow the same canon, as does much of the Italian fare at Il Pittore. George Sabatino’s bill of fare at Stateside offers but a trio of entree-sized mains, and the same goes for Jason Cichonski’s Ela, new to the corner of Third and Bainbridge in Queen Village.

At Cichonski’s previous stop, however, the multiple courses are not optional: Chip Roman’s Mica in Chestnut Hill presents several variations on prix fixe meals for diners to choose from. Top Chef winner Kevin Sbraga took the same route with his eponymous restaurant on the Avenue of the Arts. Marc Vetri ceased all à la carte service at his flagship Italian on Spruce Street, where guests can partake in tasting menus from $135 and up.

Food Truck Explosion

Folks who want to pick and choose their eats should instead take to the streets. A seemingly never-ending stream of high-end food trucks have launched in Philadelphia this year, following the lead of cities like Los Angeles and New York. No longer the province of gruff immigrants serving greasy cheesesteaks or bacon-egg-and-cheese, Philly street food now includes several innovative options. Barbecue maestro Mark Coates serves addictive meats from The Smoke Truck, and Matt Feldman took his jazz joint on the road, providing patrons both local, handmade burgers and a dose of good music when they stop by his window at the Lucky Old Souls van. Say Cheese is grilling up artisan cheese and Chez Yasmine is serving a variety of vegetarian-centric exotic eats from their rolling perch. Even Iron Chef Jose Garces got into the roving scene with the Guapos Tacos truck, covered with thousands of glinting bottle caps.

The Food Trust’s Night Market series has only served to enhance the mobile food scene, bringing together dozens of vendors in one spot every couple of months or so, and this year saw the first Philly Vendy Awards, in what will hopefully become an annual tradition following in the steps of the NYC original. Dessert trucks are still multiplying too, adding macarons, frozen yogurt and other treats to the cupcake staple, and Pub & Kitchen’s Jonathan Adams recently launched Rival Bros., a coffee-roasting truck tricked out with fancy La Marzocco espresso machines.

Starr Begins Composting; Center for Culinary Enterprises Underway

Mon, 12 Dec 2011 00:00:00 -0500

Starr Begins Composting; Center for Culinary Enterprises Underway:

Talula’s Garden

The culinary scene in Philadelphia is growing by leaps and bounds, which means its impact on our culture and environment is growing. Two new projects aim to make sure the way it affects our lives and surroundings is positive. Starr Restaurants is launching a composting program, which will be piloted at North Broad’s Route 6 and Talula’s Garden in Wash West.

All food and paper waste generated by these spots will henceforth be used to enrich soil at local gardens and farms, thanks to trice-weekly pickups by New Jersey-based composting firm Organic Diversion. The trial will take advantage of Talula’s co-owner Aimee Olexy and Route 6 chef Anthony DiRienzo’s previous experience with commercial composting, and the program is set to expand to the majority of Stephen Starr’s Philly operations in due time.

In West Philly, construction has begun on the new Center for Culinary Enterprises. Developed by a local community development organization with funding from the city, the federal government and others, the CCE aims to provide resources to emerging food entrepreneurs. Three shared-use commercial kitchens will be available for lease, for home-based caterers or food truck operators. A demonstration kitchen will be tricked out with multimedia for classes on nutrition, urban farming, restaurant marketing and more.

There will also be retail on site, enlivening a neighborhood in need of storefronts. Full service ‘cue joint Little Louie’s BBQ will include a youth training program, and two additional shops are to be announced. The advisory board for the project includes recognizable names like Michael Solomonov (Zahav, Percy Street Barbecue, Federal Donuts), Daniel Stern (R2L, MidAtlantic), Michael Chow (Sang Kee), Benny Lai (Vietnam Cafe) and more. A summer 2012 opening is anticipated.

http://www.zagat.com/buzz/jose-garces-revels-in-entering-the-atlantic-city-scene

Thu, 08 Dec 2011 00:00:00 -0500

http://www.zagat.com/buzz/jose-garces-revels-in-entering-the-atlantic-city-scene:

Courtesy of Revel

The Atlantic City dining scene will get an infusion of culinary cred this spring, when the brand-new Revel casino and resort opens with threeJose Garces restaurants. The Philadelphia-based Iron Chef’s concepts will anchor the food offerings at the 6.3-million-sq.-ft. Boardwalk property, which will also feature nearly a dozen other eateries, three clubs, retail, two theaters and a huge gaming floor.

An outpost of Garces’ first restaurant, Andalusian tapas bar Amada will be nearly double the size of the Old City original, and serve signature small plates, sangrias, cocktails and Spanish wines. Mirroring his always-packed Rittenhouse location, Village Whiskey will sport a brown-liquor library more extensive than any other at the Jersey Shore, and also offer the renowned custom-blend La Frieda burger, housemade pickles and raw bar selections. Distrito Cantina will combine the margaritas, flatbreads and ceviches found at the University City original with tacos from the popular Guapos Tacos food truck.

Garces recently set up several dining options for the Saguaror Hotel in Scottsdale, AZ, operates swankyMercat a la Planxa in Chicago, and runs seven Philadelphia properties, in addition the mobile taco operation. The 39-year-old chef is excited about the oceanfront expansion, according to a representative, and has no plans of slowing down anytime soon.

Lemon Hill in Fairmount, Good Dog to Pennsport, Matt Levin in Wash West

Wed, 07 Dec 2011 00:00:00 -0500

Lemon Hill in Fairmount, Good Dog to Pennsport, Matt Levin in Wash West:

Matt Levin and friend, via Twitter

It’s about to get chilly, and if you’re like us, there’s no better distraction from the dullness of winter than a look ahead to forthcoming food and drink. In Fairmount, the collaboration between Supper’s Mitch Prensky and the spirit experts at Franklin Mortgage & Investment Co. coming to the former Lucky 7 now has a name and a projected soft-opening date. Lemon Hill will launch just after Christmas, possibly as early as December 26, with neighborhood-friendly cocktails and brick-oven eats.

On the opposite side of town, the folks at Center City standby Good Dog Bar are planning a new tavern in Pennsport, at the corner of Reed and Moyamensing, according to Philly.com. No details on what to expect just yet, but we’re hopeful the blue-cheese–stuffed burger and well-priced craft drafts will follow the team south.

Chef Matt Levin appears to have found a new showcase for his whimsical (and highly regarded) creations in Wash West. After a legal tussle (check Philly.com for the gossipy details), the Spain family is parting ways from longtime Marathon Grill partners the Borishes, and as part of that deal, the 10th and Chestnut location will become something new. Cuba Libre owners Barry Gutin and Larry Cohen have been brought on board, along with Levin (most recently at Adsum). Look for the renovation to be a quick one.

If those future spots aren’t enough to excite you, know that starting today, Larry Rosenblum and MarcCosgrove’s Spread Bagelry begins serving pastrami from none other than NYC’s famous Katz’s Delicatessen. Cured and smoked meat is being delivered by courier, and will be finished off every morning in the 20th Street wood-fired oven. Hot pastrami will be sliced to order and served on rye bagels for $10 a pop, until the day’s supply is exhausted. As Meg Ryan once said in When Harry Met Sally, “Yesssss!”

What to Eat at the New Stateside on East Passyunk

Tue, 06 Dec 2011 00:00:00 -0500

What to Eat at the New Stateside on East Passyunk:

The hip restaurant scene of East Passyunk just keeps growing. Across the Singing Fountain from Izumi and Da Vinci, in a corner location that sat vacant and boarded up for the past 15 years, now resides the small-but-ambitious Stateside, whose smartly burnished wraparound windows and dark slate siding give off the vibe of a prime spot.

The wine and whiskey bar is the first dinner-serving venture for Green Eggs Café proprietors Stephen J. Slaughter and William Bonforte, and they’ve given themselves a head start by bringing in George Sabatino as executive chef. Sabatino was opening chef de cuisine at Midtown Village’s Barbuzzo (after spending several years in Marcie Turney’s other kitchens at Lolita and Bindi), and helped land that petite Mediterranean national acclaim. He’s bringing the same sensibility to Stateside, which has been doing brisk business in its first two weeks.

All ingredients for the menu are sourced from within the U.S., everything from meats, cheeses and produce to olive oil, salt and spices. A handful of $4 bar bites includes housemade pickles (made with unique ingredients like fennel and butternut squash) and cheeses with house chutneys or bacon-flavored caramel. There are over a dozen small plates to choose from, all gorgeously plated: think umami-rich foie gras butternut squash mousse spread on a crunchy baguette and then topped with cubes of gelled blood orange and fresh microgreens ($11); crisp pork belly laced with maple flavors and served atop squares of coarse-milled grits beside firm pickled apple slices ($12); and goat’s milk that’s cured in-house into a cube of fresh cheese, panko-crusted and fried, and then rested on a layer of escarole and roasted pine nuts ($9). A trio of larger plates tops out at $21, with choices like grilled cap steak with smoked bone marrow butter.

Sitting at the 10-seat concrete bar is more amusing than usual: it faces the large windowed outer wall, instead of being shoved into a corner, so people-watching and fresh air abound. All liquors are also produced domestically, which means that – although there’s no tequila – the spirit selection is relatively high-end. Specialty cocktails from bar manager Jenn Conley (Sabatino’s girlfriend) run $8–$9, and include choices like the Prohibition-era Clover Club. Ten taps offer a rotating selection of domestic craft beer, along with another 10 in bottles or cans. The wine list is a work in progress, general manager Anthony Gualtieri tells us, and you can expect to see reds and whites expand past a half-dozen choices each very soon.

Exposed brick lines the small dining room, which is not tightly packed and gets plenty of natural light. Seating capacity will double during warmer weather, when outdoor tables will fill the sidewalk on Passyunk and around to Greenwich Street. Dinner is served daily starting at 5 PM; there are no plans for lunch or brunch (Green Eggs is just down the block for that).

1536 E. Passyunk Ave.; 215-551-2500

7 Options for Christmas Dining in Philadelphia

Mon, 05 Dec 2011 00:00:00 -0500

7 Options for Christmas Dining in Philadelphia:

R2L

The buildup to the holidays can be somewhat stressful, what with juggling office parties, angling for the best shopping deals and entertaining visiting friends and family. What better gift to give yourself for making it through than a relaxing dinner out? We picked seven of the best options for Christmastime dining in Philadelphia (remember to call ahead for reservations). Merry eating!

December 23

Amis: Start your celebrations a day early at Marc Vetri’s Wash West trattoria with a four-course rendition of the Feast of the Seven Fishes. Chef Brad Spence will break out the baccalà and plenty of other classic Italian-American treats for a family-style sit-down ($65; 215-732-2647).

Christmas Eve

Bistro La Minette: The French traditionally pull out all the stops for Noël, and chef Peter Woolsey is bringing that decadence to Philly with a luxurious six-course meal. Feast on the rich flavors of caviar-topped oysters, butter-poached lobster, roasted venison loin and more ($65; with wine pairings $100; 215-925-8000).

Meme: David Katz is roasting a goose for this holiday meal and serving it family-style along with glazed ham, the buttermilk biscuits his Thursday fried chicken lunches have made famous and more. Bonus: free eggnog ($35; 215-735-4900).

Pumpkin: Bring a bottle of wine (or several) to a four-course meal at this cozy South Street West BYO. Expect chef Ian Moroney to bring festive flair to farm-fresh winter-appropriate ingredients as partner Hilary Bormakes you feel at home ($40; 215-545-4448).

Christmas Day

10 Arts: Take the opportunity to try the fare of newly installed chef de cuisine Nathan Volz in a four-course holiday feast at this Eric Ripert bistro in the Ritz-Carlton ($110; kids four–12; $55; 215-523-8273).

Nineteen (XIX): Go à la carte while overlooking the light show on the Avenue of the Arts at this elegant perch atop the Bellevue. Look for several holiday-appropriate items to complement the raw bar and New American menu (215-790-1919).

R2L: Chef Daniel Stern is offering several options for a family-style supper at his white-tablecloth restaurant on the 37th floor of Two Liberty Place. Choose from mains like roast turkey, prime rib or seven-fishes stew, accompanied by the likes of foie gras terrine and parsnip-chestnut soup. Finish with an expansive dessert buffet ($65; kids under 12, $30; 215-564-5337).

Honeygrow to Launch This Spring

Mon, 05 Dec 2011 00:00:00 -0500

Honeygrow to Launch This Spring:

New Yorker-turned-Philadelphian Justin Rosenberg(he holds an MBA from Temple) is aiming to combine the sleek style of chef-driven Momofuku Noodle Barand technology-focused Chop’t with a new concept, set to debut in Rittenhouse this spring. Honeygrow is the name for the fast-casual eatery, the first of which will land at 1601 Sansom Street, in the former Pita Pit location.

Stir-fry bowls, meal-worthy salads and gourmet shakes make up the menu, displayed on touch-screen kiosks for easy and accurate ordering. Guests will be able to create a personal profile and view previous orders, as well as pay for their lunch or dinner by swiping a card right at the order station. Prices will range from $4–$10.

Rosenberg is partnering with venture capitalist David Robkin, who is a lifelong Philadelphian on the board of Stephen Starr Restaurants, as well as other local companies. The pair intend to grow the concept swiftly, with several DAS Architects-designed branches launched within the next two years.

Sweet Things: Belle Cakery Opens, Monica Glass to Fish

Fri, 02 Dec 2011 00:00:00 -0500

Sweet Things: Belle Cakery Opens, Monica Glass to Fish:

Pastry chefs play an important role in dining out – after all, their creations are the final note of the evening. The sweets put forth by Monica Glass at Eric Ripert’s bistro 10 Arts have garnered much acclaim, from whimsical Tastykake ice cream to plum ginger panna cotta to gluten-free cupcakes (she has celiac herself). But now the “Pastry Princess” is moving on: starting this December she’ll be whipping up sugary finales for MikeStollenwerk’s expanded Fish, coming soon to 13th and Locust. We’re looking forward to sampling her even more over-the-top confections soon.

On East Passyunk, dessert maestra and Fond partner Jessie Prawlucki now has even more room to show off her baking prowess. Belle Cakery opened last week just up the avenue from the petite new American BYO. Provisioned with a counter and plenty of equipment, the take-out shop will offer individual pastries like brown butter madeleines, pistachio profiteroles, housemade marshmallows and more, as well as pre-made and custom-order full-size cakes and tarts. Holidays are a specialty, with seasonal menus offered throughout the year. The bakeshop is open noon–9 PM Tuesday–Thursday, noon–10 PM Friday–Saturday and 11 AM–7 PM on Sunday (1437 E. Passyunk Ave.; 215-271-2299).

Holiday Choices at Garces Trading Company

Thu, 01 Dec 2011 00:00:00 -0500

Holiday Choices at Garces Trading Company:

We recently popped into Garces Trading Company and were struck by how much of a one-stop shop it is for everything holiday-related (just in case our gift guide didn’t cover it).

First, if you plan to do any seasonal entertaining at home, a stop at the retail side of the Jose Garces operation is a must. Knowledgeable workers behind the deli counter will slice you a myriad of housemade cured meats and sausages, or provide a profusion of thinly sliced jamón ibérico. Cheeses can also be cut to order while you peruse the olive oil and vinegar bar for an appropriate dressing. After loading up with imported hors d’oeuvres like marcona almonds or cornichons, top your party tray off with house-baked breads and snag a selection of fanciful petit fours to serve for dessert. Head to the in-house wine-and-spirits shop (the only one in the state) to pick up appropriate pairings to serve with your nibbles. There’s an impressive selection of foreign wines – all kept at optimum temperature in the glass-enclosed walk-in cellar.

And then there’s that long-running holiday tradition: last-minute gifts! A half-dozen of Garces’ mouth-melting macarons, potted duck – rillettes topped with layers of foie gras and elderflower caramel – or a $100 prepared gift basket full of assorted treats should do the trick.

Of course, while you’re there, might as well do a little nibbling yourself. New chef de cuisine Gregg Ciprioni has created a menu of medium plates designed for sharing, from antipasti like baked cauliflower with black garlic pesto to pan-roasted scallops swimming in salty bagna càuda. Share a rectangular margherita or lamb merguez flatbread pizza, or go out in style with a loaded deep-dish pie dripping with San Marzano tomato confit and fresh Gruyère. Holidays should always be this tasty.

Coming Soon: Brick American Eatery, East Girard Gastropub and Russet

Wed, 30 Nov 2011 00:00:00 -0500

Coming Soon: Brick American Eatery, East Girard Gastropub and Russet:

Fathom will become East Girard Gastropub

The openings frenzy we saw this November must be an encouraging sign for area restaurateurs, who have several new spots in the works for 2011. Mike Stollenwerk, who recently announced he was moving elegant seafooder, Fish to new digs at 13th and Locust, decided he didn’t want to give up the space at 1708 Lombard after all. Once Fish decamps, he’ll revamp the interior and launch Brick American Eatery, a casual neighborhood bistro. In Fishtown, the corner that was briefly Stollenwerk’s Fathom will become East Girard Gastropub, once Rob Hollowayis done with renovations. Expect a pub more in tune with the unpretentious neighborhood, though one that will still feature several seafood choices from the former Fish sous-chef.

In Rittenhouse, Horizons alum Nicole Marquis is planning something novel for the former Pad Thai Shack at 127 S. 18th Street. The coming quick-serve spot will serve hearty burgers, fries and other light fare, but – and here’s the twist – every single thing on the menu will be vegan. With chef Rich Landau (Vedge) consulting, we’re looking forward to seeing how good meatless fast food can be. A February opening is projected.

Down the street at 1521 Spruce, Ernie Salandria has found a buyer for the former Ernesto’s Cafe. The brownstone-ensconsed space will become Russet, a farm-to-table BYO from Andrew and Kristin Wood. After spending time out west at San Franciso’s Quince and Napa Valley’s Terra, Andrew has returned to Philadelphia, where he previously cooked at Le Bec-Fin, James and Fork. Kristin brings a pedigree of her own, counting stints at Quince and working alongside Grant Achatz at Trio in Evanston, IL, according toFoobooz. Plans for Russet including a daily-changing menu and a February opening.

Rocchino's and American Sardine Bar Now Open

Mon, 28 Nov 2011 00:00:00 -0500

Rocchino's and American Sardine Bar Now Open:

South Philadelphia Tap Room’s John Longacre andScott Schroeder have their fingers on the pulse of the city’s bar scene, so it’s no coincidence they chose the biggest drinking night of the year, the Wednesday before Thanksgiving, to publicly debut their new watering hole, American Sardine Bar. The drinkery features a small-but-creative menu stocked with food you’d want to eat while tying one on.

The signature item – canned Spanish sardines, chopped up and served between slices of baguette with red onion and pickled egg – goes for just $2. Other sandwiches on offer include the “krabcake” (yes, made with crab stick instead of the real stuff), a season-appropriate open-faced roast chicken with gravy and a Pittsburgh steak, complete with french fries under the bun. A just-like-mom-made chicken noodle soup will warm the soul, while beer-battered onion rings will perfectly accompany pours from the bar’s 16 craft taps. And for those truly intense late-night cravings (the kitchen serves through 1 AM), there’s also Schroeder’s famous grilled peanut butter and jelly sandwich, crusted with Frosted Flakes.

1801 Federal St.; 215-215-2152

Also recently opened is Rocchino’s, a coal-fired pizza and Italian-specialty joint in the former Paradigm on Third and Chestnut in Old City. Owner Rob LaScala (LaScala’s) took almost a year to transform the space into a warmly lit bistro, with a long bar and several sit-down tables. Another LaScala concept is due to open any day right next door; more on that soon.

239 Chestnut St.; 215-238-6900

Vedge: Hearty Vegetarian Fare Served in Wash West

Mon, 21 Nov 2011 00:00:00 -0500

Vedge: Hearty Vegetarian Fare Served in Wash West:

“We usually avoid ‘vegan’ restaurants when we go out to eat,” says Kate Jacoby, referring to her and husbandRich Landau’s dining habits, mentioning that they will often call ahead to make sure a meatless meal can be prepared.

“I want to sample and taste the whole range of flavors contemporary diners are experiencing, so I can adapt them – and make them even better – in my own kitchen,” Landau adds. “There’s no reason cooking with vegetables has to be boring or tasteless.” Judging by our preview tasting (and the crowds that have flocked to the just-opened Wash West eatery) dishes at Vedge are anything but.

The former Horizons proprietors have taken over 1221 Locust Street, a classic building that was long home to traditional French Deux Chiminees. The interior has been transformed into a white-toned, marble-filled, elegant multiroom environment. “I went for the look of a modern Dean & Deluca,” Jacoby tells us. A long bar greets visitors upon entering the Frank Furness-designed building, highlighted by artfully sculpted incandescent bulbs in mottled glass chandeliers. To the side, one finds a cocktail lounge, decked out like a sitting room with sofas, comfortable chairs, bookshelves and a warm fireplace.

Three rooms make up the eating space. Two dining rooms filled with wooden tables, chairs and banquettes are adorned with stone-hearth fireplaces, mahogany trim and pastel modern art. Arched walkways lead back toward the busy kitchen, where a third space holds a long vegetable bar, flanked by hightops where guests can dine next to chefs preparing salads, snacks and what Landau referred to as “vegetable charcuterie.” For example, the portabello carpaccio, a spread of marinated, thinly sliced mushrooms that carry all the depth of flavor of aged beef ($9).

The menu is made up of small-to-medium-sized plates, well-suited for sharing. From the kitchen comes surprisingly meaty-tasting eggplant braciole, resting in a sauce that sings of fresh peas ($13). Chick-pea flour is wrapped around tangy hearts of palm, served atop gold lentil curry with a green harissa sauce ($13). Though a handful of dishes do feature tofu or seitan, this bill of fare is an homage to the vegetable, and does not rely on protein substitutes.

Guests who prefer a light snack could order a single plate (three per person is suggested for a complete dinner), or choose from a selection of light bites like housemade mixed olives or truffled fingerling fries (each $5). Both the 70-bottle wine list and beer selection (half a dozen taps and as many by the bottle) have been specially chosen to complement the produce-oriented cuisine without overpowering it. Cocktails use local, craft-distilled spirits wherever possible, and are created with housemade bitters and syrups. Non-drinkers can take advantage too: there is no soda gun – cola, root beer or ginger ale will be mixed to order.

Vedge is open Monday–Saturday, 5–10 PM. Seven-day service and/or lunch may be introduced in the future.

1221 Locust St.; 215-320-7500

Stateside Opens Tomorrow on East Passyunk

Fri, 18 Nov 2011 00:00:00 -0500

Stateside Opens Tomorrow on East Passyunk:

Saturday is opening night for Stateside, the local-focused American from the team behind Green Eggs Cafe (which now boasts three locations). Just a couple of blocks away from the East Passyunk outpost of the successful bruncherie, Stateside will feature the cuisine of chef George Sabatino, who previously helped elevate Marcie Turney’s Barbuzzo to a nationally renowned destination.

The petite 40-seat space (including 12 at the bar) across from East Passyunk’s Singing Fountain will feature small plates such as beer-braised beef cheeks ($12) and pan-roasted Brussels sprouts ($7), house-cured charcuterie and larger share-ready plates like steamed littleneck clams with housemade andouille sausage ($16). The beverage program is strictly domestic, showcasing small-batch distilleries like Philadelphia Distilling and Death’s Door. On the beer side, expect 10 taps and 15 bottles of local craft brews, while the wine list is stocked with varietals from across the nation. Dinner will be served daily from 5–11 PM.

1536 E. Passyunk Ave.;215-551-2500

Thanksgiving Recipes From Jose Garces, Mike Stollenwerk and Guillermo Pernot

Fri, 18 Nov 2011 00:00:00 -0500

Thanksgiving Recipes From Jose Garces, Mike Stollenwerk and Guillermo Pernot:

Jose Garces

If you’ve chosen to brave cooking this year over celebrating Thanksgiving at a restaurant, we’ve compiled a few worthy recipes from top area chefs. Bon appétit!

Sweet Corn Humitas

Jose Garces (Amada, Distrito et. al)

4 cups of corn, removed from the cobb, and pureed

16 oz. queso fresco

2 cups of instant white corn flour (arepa flour)

2 cups corn stock

4 tbs sugar

2 tbs salt

2 tsp baking powder

1 and a half sticks butter

10 corn husks

Combine corn, butter, baking powder, salt, sugar and eggs in a food processor and puree until smooth. Transfer mixture to a mixing bowl and add corn stock, corn flour, queso fresco and mix with a spoon until thickened. Fold the corn husks into tubular shapes with the bottom closed and the top open. Butter the interior of the corn husks, then spoon 2 tbs of the corn mixture into each husk. Fold the top over to seal. Place a steamer in a large pot with water. Bring water to a boil and then place corn humitas, horizontally, into the steamer. Humitas can be layered on top of one another. Cook for about 30 minutes.

Oyster Hash

Mike Stollenwerk (Fish)

Serves 4-6 people

1 Tbsp. canola oil

2 lb. fingerling potatoes

4 oz. bacon, diced

3 small shallots, minced

1 head fennel, diced

3 stalks celery, diced

30 blue island oysters, shucked, 4 oz. liquid reserved

1 oz. sherry vinegar

1 honey crisp apple, diced

3 Tbsp. butter

4 sprigs fresh thyme

¼ cup chopped parsley

salt & pepper as needed

Begin by placing the potatoes in a pot of cold water and bring to a simmer over

medium heat, cook until tender. Strain and set aside until cool enough to peel, once peeled

slice into ¼ inch rounds.

In a large sauté pan heat oil over medium heat add bacon and render until crispy.

Once bacon is crisp add shallot, fennel, celery, and thyme, sweat vegetables until tender but

not browned. Add reserved oyster liquid and vinegar and reduce until liquid has evaporated.

Add the butter, sliced potato, and diced apple continue to cook over medium heat for 5

minutes until apples start to soften. Add parsley and oysters, cook for an additional minute.

Season with salt and pepper as desired.

Pavo Real

Chef-Partner Guillermo Pernot (Cuba Libre)

Yield 16

1 small onion, chopped

1 lemon

12 fresh sage leaves

½ cup of parsley leaves

3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

1 teaspoon salt, plus more as needed

6 bay leaves

4 tablespoons butter

2 boneless turkey breast halves, (about 4½ pounds each)

Freshly ground black pepper

4 banana leaves

1 recipe of curry –mango mojito

Preheat the oven to 400 degrees F. Oil a roasting pan and set it aside.

Put the onion into the bowl of a mini food processor. Using a vegetable

peeler, peel the zest from the lemon in thin strips, being careful not to cut

into the bitter white pith. Add the lemon zest to the food processor and.

Chop the onion and lemon zest until fine. Add the sage, parsley, olive oil,

and 1 teaspoon salt and pulse until it forms a coarse paste.

Put the turkey breasts on a work surface. Carefully run your fingers between

the skin and the flesh from one end, being careful not to pull it completely

off, creating a pocket. Season the turkey breasts generously with salt and

pepper. Stuff half of the herb paste under the skin of each breast, and spread

it evenly under the skin.

Transfer the breasts to open banana leaves in a roasting pan. Using a pastry

brush, baste the breast with mango mojito, close leaves. Place the turkey

in the oven and roast for 40 to minutes, until cooked through, and the

thermometer placed in the thickest part of the breast registers 155 degrees F.

Remove from the oven, and let rest for 10 minutes before carving.

For the curry-mango mojito sauce:

12 oz. fresh mango, medium diced

2 oz. cilantro, roughly chopped

1 cup. olive oil

1teaspoon granulated sugar

.25 oz. Thai red curry paste

1 oz. fresh basil

In a small bowl, combined all the ingredients.

Heat in a small saucepan over medium heat until warmed through.

Puree in a blender.

Now Open: Vedge and Tapestry

Thu, 17 Nov 2011 00:00:00 -0500

Now Open: Vedge and Tapestry:

Vedge

Former Horizons owners Rich Landau and Kate Jacoby aren’t willing to wait any longer to throw open the doors at their small-plate vegetable sanctuary Vedge. The restaurant began service last night, offering a menu full of sharable dishes in which vegetables star plus a creative cocktail list. Stay tuned for the full rundown, coming soon (1221 Locust St.; 215-320-7500).

Earlier this week, we got a sneak peek at the impressive beer list (24 on draft, nearly 150 in bottles), classic cocktails and light fare at Tapestry, which also launched last night. After losing partner Matt Levin at the spot’s former incarnation as Adsum, proprietor Kar Vivekananthan turned to friend Rich Rivera of Belvedere Restaurant Group (which also runs Manayunk’s Agiato), who will oversee day-to-day operations. The pair tapped chef Carmen Cappello (previously at Wishing Well) to create the menu, which includes accessible bites like housemade pizzas, crab fritters and cheese plates. The neighborhood hangout will be open daily from 5 PM, and will also offer weekend brunch (700 S. Fifth St.).