At Heirloom, a new BYO situated on Chestnut Hill’s Germantown Avenue, proprietor Robert Bynum (Warmdaddy’s, Relish) has partnered with well-traveled Philly chef Al Paris for a take on “fine American cookery.”
Paris researched old cookbooks from all over the country, including the South, the Midwest, New England and more, to find traditional recipes that have been lost in recent times. His reconfigured classics will appear on a frequently changing menu, split into salads, appetizers and mains. These are hearty, belly-filling plates: a huge dollop of burrata comes surrounded by a profusion of lightly warmed whole tomatoes ($12), and a large diver scallop is plated with a generous slab of Berkshire pork belly ($14). Entrees top out at $29, which brings an entire lobster’s worth of meat, expertly plucked from its shell and accompanied by a scoop of fluffy gnocchi, garnet yams, morels and more. The ample serving of braised short ribs is highlighted by a chunk of fresh-baked spoonbread, adapted from a 1930s recipe ($24).
Desserts are all housemade, including Paris’ answer to the current donut craze: a glazed, yeast-based rendition that comes topped with warm, cinnamon-baked apples, ice cream and a crisp of oatmeal and accompanied by a petite caramel-coated apple on a stick. There’s also sarsaparilla soda and unique mixers to complement diners’ bourbons or other spirits (it’s directly next door to a Wine & Spirits shop), plus small-batch root beers and refreshingly spicy Blenheim ginger ale.
The warmly lit room seats 50, including two-tops, four-tops and banquettes that surround a dramatic wood-slab communal table. The hand-stacked slate walls, bamboo flooring and vintage reproduction fabrics lend the space the feeling of a classic cottage. Much of the construction was done by Paris himself, a talented artisan whose friends call him a true Renaissance man.
Heirloom will serve dinner 5–10 PM, Tuesday–Thursday and Sunday, and 5–11 PM Friday–Saturday, with weekend brunch from 10:30 AM–2:30 PM.
8705 Germantown Ave.; 215-242-2700
